Hikmet Ziya ÖZEK
The engineering design of textile fabrics is a complicated task since significant interactions between different design parameters ultimately affect the properties of a textile product. Manufacturers need to produce high-quality products, and develop new product designs which correlate with customer requirements to obtain more satisfactory output. In order to determine a proper product solution for achieving customer satisfaction and business goals, the entire steps of product development become more significant and complicated when utilizing external resources. It is obvious that the decision process for assessing design alternatives depends on the trade offs between quality, time to market, and cost. The use of Quality Function Deployment (QFD) method for selecting design and product criteria offers many advantages in these terms. In fashion industry, lustrous surfaces are often required for glamorous styles. The purpose of this study is to develop glossy circular knitted fabrics to meet such demands. The methodology of QFD is employed for the design process. Fabric lustre is one of those attributes which affects the visual appearance of a fabric. It is the amount of specular light the fabric reflects. Two alternative methods are used to produce such an effect. One method is to use dyeable lurex metalized yarn which enables the glazing effect within the fabric with various colors. The other method is application of the calendering process. The fabrics containing lurex yarn are knitted as single and double jersey, interlock, and three yarn fabric structures. Similar structures without lurex are produced for calender trials. These two methods have some advantages and disadvantages. Regarding clarity and durability of the glazing effect, the first group is superior; whereas with regard to cost, calendared fabrics appear more economical. The luster index of the samples containing lurex yarn is found higher than the other version. ORCID NO: 0000-0003-3935-6170

Anahtar Kelimeler: Design, Lustrous fabrics, Knitted fabric, QFD,